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Web Exclusive

Pressing Forward

Arctic Refuge Photography by Subhankar Banerjee

text by Tricia Louvar

Web exclusive to the January/February 2004 issue of Orion magazine



Aurora Borealis - The Hulahula ice field catches the red of the aurora. Amazing shapes form and disappear in the sky. Around eight in the evening the temperature drops to about minus fifty degrees F, and we turn in for the night. I got my first frostbite -- on three fingers and the tip of my nose.
Autumn on Taiga - The autumn colors on the taiga rival the hardwood forests of New England. There is the flame orange of dwarf birch, bright crimson of the bearberry, gold of willow and birch, and pale yellow of lichens all contrasted by the dark green of solitary spruce trees lightly scattered about the land.
Sacred Ground - Inupiat cemetery marked with bowhead whale jawbones in Kaktovik.
Trails of Displacement - The noise pollution from offshore complexes travels as far as 100 miles away and displaces endangered whales from their migratory path.
Threatening the Free - Even small spills put free-ranging animals in danger. A toxicology report found that a polar bear died from licking antifreeze.
A Quiet, Moving Landscape - Autumn along the Hulahula River
Community Hunt - Elder Isaac Akootchook and Captain James Lampe offer a prayer after a whale is brought to shore.
Observation Point - Charlie Swaney uses a spotting scope to scan the East Fork of the Chandalar River valley for moose and caribou; his dog, Scooby, does it the old-fashioned way.
Migration Pattern - Pregnant porcupine caribou migrate across the frozen Coleen River. The caribou form long lines and move with determination and a sense of purpose to reach the coastal plain in time to calve.
Severe Waste - Over a seven-year period, nearly three thousand spills resulted in 1.7 million gallons of toxic substances entering the Alaskan wilderness.
Capitate Lousewart - pushes up through the snow after a summer storm
Spots of Color - Patterns of crimson and pale yellow rock lichens cluster on the barren landscape
Muskoxen in the Mist - A thin ice fog moves in, shrouding the snow covered coastal plain. The sky is deep pink and the large yellow ball of the midnight sun looms over the herd. I imagine being transported back to the Pleistocene era with these ice age survivors.
Summer Fog - Down below, a fog system suddenly moves in from the south, obstructing our view of the river. Soon after, another fog bank moves in from the north, and we watch in awe as the two fronts collide, sending massive rolls of fog up the creek.
Unnamed Lake - The refuge is so remote and untamed that many peaks, valleys, and lakes are still without names and shall remain that way. Marsh fleabane cluster along the lakeshore, while Nichenthraw Mountain and spruce trees are reflected on the calm water of early morning.

In the open space of democracy, beauty is not optional, but essential to our survival as a species.”
—Terry Tempest Williams from her triptych essay “The Open Space of Democracy”


To create order out of chaos is a fundamental principle of art. Photographer Subhankar Banerjee—a thirty-something computer scientist from India turned artist and conservationist—has honed his artistic proficiency from the seat of a kayak, a Cessna, and even an iceberg, documenting the wonders of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge over a two-year period.

His poignant shots of willow ptarmigan, pregnant porcupine caribou, purple anemone, polar bears, and rivers speak volumes about one of the nation’s most prized treasures, and construct a persuasive case for tender conservation over speculative profiteering. In March 2003 Sen. Barbara Boxer (D-Calif.) denounced oil drilling in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, zealously defending the crown jewel of the United States with Banerjee’s book in hand.

Banerjee’s talent and access to the remotest wilderness captured the attention of a Smithsonian curator. Originally arranged as an exhibit in the museum’s prestigious Hall 10 gallery, poetic captions were penned and, very typically, fervent opinions clashed. But after the “Boxer rebellion,” mysteriously, Banerjee’s debut was relocated to a hallway leading to a loading dock, with revised didactic captions replacing the poetic and ardent legends originally conceived.

Banerjee prepared this caption before Senator Boxer’s debate to accompany a photograph of a buff-breasted sandpiper on the coastal plan of the Jago River: “This species, a long-distance traveler that migrates each year from Argentina to the Arctic Refuge coastal plain to nest and rear their young, is one of the top five bird species at greatest risk if their habitat is disturbed.”

After the Senate vote, the Smithsonian edited the caption to read: “Buff-Breasted Sandpiper / Coastal Plain of the Jago River.”

Despite obstructions like these, democracy seems to have worked for ANWR for the time being. But as economics and nature collide, this could just be the calm before the (re)election storm.

While the Arctic Refuge contains roughly a six-month supply of oil at current national consumption levels, President George W. Bush’s 2005 budget has designated the area as a billion-dollar revenue machine for its oil lease sales in 2006. Recently, Congress voted (again) not to open the refuge for drilling this year. Come November, the refuge is in the voters’ hands.

For his part, Banerjee continues to travel across the country lecturing on the Arctic Refuge, and pressing forward with warm memories of frostbite as he fights for the sanctity of this pristine wilderness.

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Tricia Louvar is a senior editor at Glencoe/McGraw-Hill. She lives in Los Angeles.

For more information about the work of Subhankar Banerjee, visit his website: World Without Borders.

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